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Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese 2017 (375ml)

Winery/Brand: Egon Muller

Region: Saar

Area: Scharzhofberg

Vintage/Years: 2017

Volume: 375ml

Wine Advocate: 96

James Suckling: 96

Wine Spectator: 95

Anotnio Galloni: 95

Type: White Wine

Grapes Varieties: Riesling

Country/Origin: Germany

Price
HK$ 1,011
 
HK$ 1,098Save HK$ 87

(WA=96) The 2017 Scharzhofberger Spätlese AP #6 offers a clear, fine, beautifully ripe and concentrated—though currently pretty closed—bouquet that is still covered by sulfites. Crystalline and mouth willingly lush and round on the palate, this is a very refined, frisky and playful Riesling with enormous finesse and dancing featherweight on the palate. There are delicate raisin and slate flavours in the aftertaste. This Spätlese has around 71 grams of residual sugar, yet you don’t taste that much of it.

(JS=96) A great Egon Muller classic. This riesling does not only impress with its power. It dazzles with its delicacy. A very long and pure finish, which seems almost weightless and shows great minerality. Drink or hold.

(AG=95) There is just this one vintage 2017 Müller Scharzhofberger Spätlese, and it reflects formidable botrytis influence via a combination of dried fruit concentration, singed-edge smokiness, honeyed richness and an oily, almost plush texture. Happily, a lusciously fresh layer of white peach and apple is also present, and as with so many other top exemplars of this site, particularly in 2017, there is an invigorating bite of pepper cress curiously but delightfully allied with cooling mintiness. The acids here – at eleven grams, the highest in this collection save for the T.B.A. – are pitted against residual sugar and buffered by dry extract to the point where tingling tartness or bright citricity are absent, yet their effect is felt in the sheer penetration and vibratory sense of energy conveyed on the wine’s prodigious, strikingly undulating finish. “For me,” remarked Veronika Lintner, “this Spätlese encapsulates the 2017 vintage.” It does the best of it, anyway.

(WS=95) Rich and lush, but with piercing acidity running through, creating an elegant floral feel, delivering flavours of lavender, kiwi, elderberry and candied lime. The vibrant structure imparts focus and length, as this stays intense but balanced on the kaleidoscopic, mineral-inflected aftertaste. Great clarity and expression. Best from 2021 through 2036

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